Okay, this might seem like a no-brainer: Remove cap and tip liquid out. Wipe up excess from table.
But there is a better way to pour that is non-intuitive but takes the spill out of the equation, even with gallon cans filled to the top, like my Webber's Turpenoid Natural, here, or the new Gamsol cans (each of which has a new, easy-open, pull-out plastic seal).
My dad taught me this as a kid filling the lawnmower. To get the cleanest pour, get the pour-hole diagonally as far from the target as possible, or "pour across the can" as he put it.
What this does is keep as much of the liquid away from the edge of the pour hole until you are just past the tipping point, allowing the top of the can to tip down and under, out of the way, with the added benefit that the level of the liquid will not as-otherwise-likely reach the top of the pour spout, sealing it off, causing the "glugging" that makes a huge mess.
Try it! It just pours straight down, no glugging.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
$78 Life Saver
Would you pay me $78 if I could restore your entire Mac start-up drive and all its files back to working order in under 4 hours? Would you pay me even more if you knew I was the best way to get all your photos and movies and e-mails back and have your drive in the same condition it was before your drive crashed?
Then why not pay yourself for the same thing in advance?
If you are using Mac Leopard (OS 10.5) or higher, you have Time Machine included with your Mac OS, and you should just use it.
You can get a 500GB hard drive that is powered from the very USB port you plug it into for $78 shipped, and begin using it to back up your system within 5 minutes of receiving it.
It's a little bigger than a pack of cards and needs only the included, manageable USB cable.
Just the other day my start-up drive died. I bought a new one, stuck it in my Mac and formatted it for Mac OS. I then restarted my Mac from the Leopard OS Install disc. Once it started up, I went to the Utilities menu of the start-up screen and chose "Restore Stem from Time Machine Back-up" at the bottom of the menu list.
After pointing to the most recent back up that I felt was safe, and to the new drive I wanted to write to, I clicked "start." In my case, my start-up drive had 700GB to restore, so it took me longer than most folks. But in four hours it was done, and I was back online with all my apps still installed and working.
That is the easiest recovery I have ever done. By far. It used to take days or weeks.
Do it now.
Then why not pay yourself for the same thing in advance?
If you are using Mac Leopard (OS 10.5) or higher, you have Time Machine included with your Mac OS, and you should just use it.
You can get a 500GB hard drive that is powered from the very USB port you plug it into for $78 shipped, and begin using it to back up your system within 5 minutes of receiving it.
It's a little bigger than a pack of cards and needs only the included, manageable USB cable.
Just the other day my start-up drive died. I bought a new one, stuck it in my Mac and formatted it for Mac OS. I then restarted my Mac from the Leopard OS Install disc. Once it started up, I went to the Utilities menu of the start-up screen and chose "Restore Stem from Time Machine Back-up" at the bottom of the menu list.
After pointing to the most recent back up that I felt was safe, and to the new drive I wanted to write to, I clicked "start." In my case, my start-up drive had 700GB to restore, so it took me longer than most folks. But in four hours it was done, and I was back online with all my apps still installed and working.
That is the easiest recovery I have ever done. By far. It used to take days or weeks.
Do it now.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Using a Second Mac as a Hard Drive (Target Disk Mode)
Okay, I hope this isn't over your head, but the following might be useful sometime, for video rendering, rescuing stuff off a hard drive, repairs, or copying files.
I have a G5, and in the Sidebar snapshot below (which I have edited with color regions), you can see that I have two Hard drives mounted inside the machine (no added color rectangle). I also have several other drives that are hard drives mounted in "Enclosures" that have USB 2.0 connections to the computer. Where they have similar names plus a numeral, these are actually the same physical drive divided into separate volumes*. (These are designated in the green rectangle)
But the beauty is what's in the red rectangle. That is actually a single 500GB hard drive mounted in another Mac, specifically, my old G4. All Macs since OS 10.2, I think, have a mode of startup called "Target Disc mode" which allows any Mac to be started up as a Target Disc which mounts on another Mac. It is then usable as any other drive would be, to use, copy from or write to.
I connected old G4 to my G5 to use the Hard Drive in the G4 for video capture and rendering.
It turns out that USB 2.0 External Hard drives are NOT as fast as Firewire, in fact can be MUCH slower, despite what you are told by the salesman. Connecting two computers by Firewire in Target Disk Mode allows you to use the other computer's main drive as if it were a Firewire external hard drive.
I had long ago reduced my no-longer used G4 to a single, small-drive system. But Saturday, I opened it up and added the large drive with 5 volumes (partitions) on it.
But first, I had to make sure the following was true:
1. The drive I want to use from the remote computer HAS to be in the Master position on the cable/ribbon. Ribbons have three different colored flat connectors: Blue, which mounts to the motherboard bus, and two others which are at the other end for mounting two drives. Gray is the second or Slave drive, and Black is the Master.
2. You can only use the "Ultra ATA bus" -- meaning the main bus if there are more than one. Don't worry if you don't understand "bus."
In my case, [with the power off] I moved the main hard drive in my old computer to the slave (second, gray) connector and added my new drive to the master position (first, end, black) connector, connected the power connectors to each (the little milky-white plug with red, yellow, black and white wires), mounted the drive-holding cage back into the computer, and closed it up.
3. You must not have ANY other Firewire devices (camcorders, DVD drives, etc.) connected to the Mac you want to connect your Target Mac, to. My older G4 is my Target Mac, powered down, but my G5 is my daily-use Mac, and I disconnected all Firewire devices from it. You can connect and disconnect Firewire items "hot" -- you don't need to power down first.
4. On my G5, I opened a Finder window so I could see when the Target Mac showed up on it.
5. The process for starting up in Target mode is simply to press the power button on the Target (my G4) and hold down the T key alone until the main drive shows up on the other computer. That's all there is to it. On the G4 Mac, I simply powered it on, holding the "t" down on the keyboard of the G4 and waited until the drive showed up on my G5.
(When you want to turn it off, simply "Eject" the target drive from your Main computer (G5) and power down the Target computer (G4).)
This works with just about any two Macs that can be connected with Firewire (make sure they have the correct connector ports on each computer.) Another bonus is that the hard drive in the Master position doesn't even have System software on it. I cannot start up the G5 from that drive, yet it still mounts on my G5 in Target Disk mode.
Basically, this was like having a very expensive Firewire Enclosure which looked exactly like a Dual 1.0Ghz, Mirrored Doors G4. But it did cut my rendering time down to about 1/3 of what it would have been on a USB external.
I have a G5, and in the Sidebar snapshot below (which I have edited with color regions), you can see that I have two Hard drives mounted inside the machine (no added color rectangle). I also have several other drives that are hard drives mounted in "Enclosures" that have USB 2.0 connections to the computer. Where they have similar names plus a numeral, these are actually the same physical drive divided into separate volumes*. (These are designated in the green rectangle)
But the beauty is what's in the red rectangle. That is actually a single 500GB hard drive mounted in another Mac, specifically, my old G4. All Macs since OS 10.2, I think, have a mode of startup called "Target Disc mode" which allows any Mac to be started up as a Target Disc which mounts on another Mac. It is then usable as any other drive would be, to use, copy from or write to.
I connected old G4 to my G5 to use the Hard Drive in the G4 for video capture and rendering.
It turns out that USB 2.0 External Hard drives are NOT as fast as Firewire, in fact can be MUCH slower, despite what you are told by the salesman. Connecting two computers by Firewire in Target Disk Mode allows you to use the other computer's main drive as if it were a Firewire external hard drive.
I had long ago reduced my no-longer used G4 to a single, small-drive system. But Saturday, I opened it up and added the large drive with 5 volumes (partitions) on it.
But first, I had to make sure the following was true:
1. The drive I want to use from the remote computer HAS to be in the Master position on the cable/ribbon. Ribbons have three different colored flat connectors: Blue, which mounts to the motherboard bus, and two others which are at the other end for mounting two drives. Gray is the second or Slave drive, and Black is the Master.
2. You can only use the "Ultra ATA bus" -- meaning the main bus if there are more than one. Don't worry if you don't understand "bus."
In my case, [with the power off] I moved the main hard drive in my old computer to the slave (second, gray) connector and added my new drive to the master position (first, end, black) connector, connected the power connectors to each (the little milky-white plug with red, yellow, black and white wires), mounted the drive-holding cage back into the computer, and closed it up.
3. You must not have ANY other Firewire devices (camcorders, DVD drives, etc.) connected to the Mac you want to connect your Target Mac, to. My older G4 is my Target Mac, powered down, but my G5 is my daily-use Mac, and I disconnected all Firewire devices from it. You can connect and disconnect Firewire items "hot" -- you don't need to power down first.
4. On my G5, I opened a Finder window so I could see when the Target Mac showed up on it.
5. The process for starting up in Target mode is simply to press the power button on the Target (my G4) and hold down the T key alone until the main drive shows up on the other computer. That's all there is to it. On the G4 Mac, I simply powered it on, holding the "t" down on the keyboard of the G4 and waited until the drive showed up on my G5.
(When you want to turn it off, simply "Eject" the target drive from your Main computer (G5) and power down the Target computer (G4).)
This works with just about any two Macs that can be connected with Firewire (make sure they have the correct connector ports on each computer.) Another bonus is that the hard drive in the Master position doesn't even have System software on it. I cannot start up the G5 from that drive, yet it still mounts on my G5 in Target Disk mode.
Basically, this was like having a very expensive Firewire Enclosure which looked exactly like a Dual 1.0Ghz, Mirrored Doors G4. But it did cut my rendering time down to about 1/3 of what it would have been on a USB external.
* I partition large drives into 50GM or more for video editing. Each partition can be "Erased" using Disk Utility which is a fast way to return each to "Pristine Condition" -- even invisible stuff is deleted, which is good for video editing, since video software usually utilizes only 'contiguous free space' and ignores fragmented free space.
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Mail Batch Settings for PHPList
If you use the free PHPList for mailing to a large mailing list, you may want to know how to handle batch sizes so you don't overload the mail server.
My host and mail server is Lunarpages, whom I highly recommend for the incredible service they provide and the extremely low price for web hosting ($6.95/month!).
When my mailing list got to over 800 names, I started getting errors when I sent mail, and it looked like it was some kind of "over limit error."
I didn't understand, so I called Lunarpages' tech help, and they explained to me that a limit is placed on the mailing account, and that it's 800 e-mails per hour. This is so the server does not get over-taxed.
PHPList can send the whole batch -- currently around 1500 subscribers -- in a minute or two, but Lunarpages was stopping the batch send-out at 400 -- meaning 1100+ subscribers would not get my mailings. PHPlist has no way of knowing Lunarpages tosses them out, so it assumes they have all been sent and received.
So I got into the code and changed some settings. Here's what to do:
Go to the file Admin > Configure > config.php and find the line that starts with
Change that setting and the next two to match this:
This makes PHP load the entire list of subscribers and send them out in timed batches. The default batch period is 3600 [seconds] -- which is one hour. But the changes above send out a batch of 20 immediately, and then new batches of 20 e-mails, every time 122 seconds. But then there's the throttle...
The throttle is in seconds, too. I put a 4 in there, so it waits 4 seconds between each individual message, taking at least 100 seconds to send, but actually a bit more. This is a courtesy to the mail server, since some servers object to having to process a 'dump' of emails immediately. No one at Lunarpages was objecting, though, and each batch is completed within 2 minutes.
My host and mail server is Lunarpages, whom I highly recommend for the incredible service they provide and the extremely low price for web hosting ($6.95/month!).
When my mailing list got to over 800 names, I started getting errors when I sent mail, and it looked like it was some kind of "over limit error."
I didn't understand, so I called Lunarpages' tech help, and they explained to me that a limit is placed on the mailing account, and that it's 800 e-mails per hour. This is so the server does not get over-taxed.
Nevermind that... since I wrote the above they have reduced it to 400 "but we recommend you treat it as 300." They have also limited the per minute bulk sends to 20. So the remainder of this discussion has been altered to accommodate the new limits as of January 2010.
PHPList can send the whole batch -- currently around 1500 subscribers -- in a minute or two, but Lunarpages was stopping the batch send-out at 400 -- meaning 1100+ subscribers would not get my mailings. PHPlist has no way of knowing Lunarpages tosses them out, so it assumes they have all been sent and received.
So I got into the code and changed some settings. Here's what to do:
Go to the file Admin > Configure > config.php and find the line that starts with
define("MAILQUEUE_BATCH_SIZE"... etc.
Change that setting and the next two to match this:
define("MAILQUEUE_BATCH_SIZE",20);
define("MAILQUEUE_BATCH_PERIOD",122);
define('MAILQUEUE_THROTTLE',4);
define("MAILQUEUE_BATCH_PERIOD",122);
define('MAILQUEUE_THROTTLE',4);
This makes PHP load the entire list of subscribers and send them out in timed batches. The default batch period is 3600 [seconds] -- which is one hour. But the changes above send out a batch of 20 immediately, and then new batches of 20 e-mails, every time 122 seconds. But then there's the throttle...
The throttle is in seconds, too. I put a 4 in there, so it waits 4 seconds between each individual message, taking at least 100 seconds to send, but actually a bit more. This is a courtesy to the mail server, since some servers object to having to process a 'dump' of emails immediately. No one at Lunarpages was objecting, though, and each batch is completed within 2 minutes.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Backing Up A Blog
Question: I use Blogger... I must admit changing all that stuff in templates and such scared me. What if I do one step wrongly and lose it all? I would love to hear from someone who has tried it successfully.
The short answer is that you probably don't need to, but if you want to, Blogger provides this set of instructions for their users. In those instructions they tell you to back up your template for one reason: you will be replacing your template with a simple little one that will assist in getting the blog data you want, and then replacing that template with your old one when you are done.
Backing up your template has nothing to do with backing up your blog entries. The former is is easier than the latter.The whole concept of blogging is built around a database somewhere, where each item that shows up on a blogger's page is [usually] a piece of data, or singularly: a datum. A datum can be a single character, a space, a word, a phrase, a sentence, a paragraph, a story, a number, a calculation [in some cases] a date, an image, a URL, a reference to a datum from elsewhere, etc.
A Database
Think of a database as a file cabinet drawer. Let's say that the bottom drawer of the file cabinet has all your blog entries.
I start with the bottom drawer as a practical matter: you fill the top drawer first, and you will knock over the cabinet when you open the drawer. But I digress.
In that file drawer is a collection of file folders. Each folder has an ID number or Name. Your particular folder has your blogger name or ID on it, and inside that folder are pieces of paper that represent records in the database, or 'blog entries.' You notice that sometimes there are pages that are stapled to other pages; these are longer blog entries where the entire entry was so large it ran onto another page, but once stapled together, we know they are really one story, or one record. In the database world, there are no stapled pages, only larger records).At any time, you can request a blank form to write a new story. Blank form = new post. But you are only authorized to place it in the folder with your name on it. You will be arrested and searched if you try to access someone else's folder. Stay on your own property. The new blank form has lines with text telling you what to write on the lines, like Title and Story, for example. These lines help you decide where the right data go, and are equivalent to fields. This page (database record) of lines (fields) can go back into your folder any time you want, and does, when you hit the Publish button.
You can set it to "draft" if you are not ready to make it available to the public yet (think of adding a red Post-It tag to the edge of the page which means to the database keeper "Don't Publish this"), or, absent any such flag it is Prioritized to be immediately made public.
In another drawer there is a folder of your pictures (the drawer and folder might be owned by Photobucket, or Blogger, Flickr, etc). On the back of each photo, there is a bit of data that says that the picture was put there by the person whose data is in the bottom drawer whose file is marked with your ID or name, and each photo has a unique number that cannot possibly be assigned to any other photo in the world. So no mistake can be made (that metaphor can break down under certain controlled circumstances, but let's let that go for now).
And in yet another drawer (Blogger) is a folder that has pages of User Account data. this folder has a page in it about you, your email address, your birthday, and whatever else they collected about you when you signed up. This page also lists the unique name of the Blog you came up with and also what folder in the bottom drawer holds all your stories, and in what order the pages are sorted (by date? by title?), and also stores info on any other blogs you write, and where in the bottom drawer they may be found, if data is needed.
Related Databases
Each of these drawers of info represent differing databases, but they each contain info on how the various folders in separate drawers are related to each other, to make finding, sorting and displaying the info contained therein much easier.
The Template
The template is only a page layout description that tells generally how you want the data from your folder(s) displayed. That's why when you goof up your template and your page gets all screwed up, you can fix it all by simply importing your back-up of a working template or 'just get a new one."
Every time you post a new entry, you create a new record in a database. A record is defined as a collection of unique data limited to the data that can be held in a finite number of fields, which are available for each new record.
Example: a record (a page in your folder in the bottom drawer) might hold these fields (lines for bits of info)
date
title
story
footer
...and, technically -- in the digital database), these items all run together (on one page) with [probably] one unique field separator between bits of data and one final character defining the end of the record. This is for space-saving when storing digitally.
The template displays each field on a 'visual page' [which one sees in a browser] in the designed order and with character size and styling chosen by the template designer [person]. Someone else can, with the right authority and permission, change the template and give the data a whole new look, without ever touching the data.
RSS Feeds
RSS (which is sometimes expanded to mean Really Simple Syndication] is a concatenation of somewhat universally accepted field names, or tags, that in essence 'form' a simplified template that RSS readers can use to re-display database data based on accepted standards. The blogging editor companies have grown to provide RSS feeds as a somewhat instantaneous, available output when you post a blog (not that difficult with behind-the-scenes programming) and its based on mostly-English "coding" (similar to HTML) and being able to pull data from the database in a defined order, and for a defined range of dates or other criteria. It's just using your data a second time.
Who Needs to Back Up
It is generally safe to suggest/believe that Blogger- and other-service-users can rest in the knowledge that Google (the mother ship) is backing everything up redundantly, and you will likely not lose your blog unless something very serious happens to Google or America, in either case, you probably will have more to worry about than your blog. So you probably will not need to worry about losing all your data. (Still, keep a financial eye on the solvency of the companies that host our data, images and other stuff)
If you host your own database (like I do with my Wordpress blog on www.DarrowArt.com the database needs to be backed up by you at any regular interval you feel comfortable with. It's not intuitive, but it is as easy as logging in to your host's Control Panel, accessing the MySQL tool and clicking Back-Up, and downloading the ZIP file they try to send you.
In today's world however, your host is probably backing up all their computers 24/7, so its likely your database can be recovered with a phone-call to the geeks in the tech department at your host.
For $6.95/month, by the way, I get really good service and 1500GB of web space and storage -- and a lot more -- from my personal site's host: Lunarpages.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Panorama Stitching
Stitching is the term that is used for taking 2 or more images of a scene that is too large for one frame, then assembling them into one larger image. There is a lot of math involved in smoothing out once straight lines, and combining them into the natural curves found in natural viewing.
Panorama stitching programs can cost a lot of money, but HP offers Panorama Stitching as one of the tools in a free Photo Suite.
Above is the view from my south-facing balcony. It was stitched from 14 stills. Each still was 1920 x 1080 (pixels) (the same as one frame of High-Definition video).
According to Photoshop's Image Size, which I used to size his DOWN to 1800px wide for posting (click the image above to see a larger view), the re-sized photo is 25" wide at 72dpi -- but the full-sized Panorama photo was 110" wide (!)
This view is from my south-facing balcony, overlooking the 78 freeway that divides Carlsbad from Oceanside. Just to give you an idea of how to mentally straighten this out, the olive-green "railing" on the balcony that comes at the viewer at the left of the photo is the same 15' board (straight) as the one at the right end. This is almost a 180-degree view from east to went (l to r). Across the freeway on the right is a driving range where golfers hit their golf balls across a long, flat green onto a hill with targets marking how far their shot would calculate to if the hill did not stop the trajectory.
Panorama software is built into a free set of tools made by HP
Mac versions (Photosmart Studio)
PC (look here)
Panorama stitching programs can cost a lot of money, but HP offers Panorama Stitching as one of the tools in a free Photo Suite.
Above is the view from my south-facing balcony. It was stitched from 14 stills. Each still was 1920 x 1080 (pixels) (the same as one frame of High-Definition video).
According to Photoshop's Image Size, which I used to size his DOWN to 1800px wide for posting (click the image above to see a larger view), the re-sized photo is 25" wide at 72dpi -- but the full-sized Panorama photo was 110" wide (!)
This view is from my south-facing balcony, overlooking the 78 freeway that divides Carlsbad from Oceanside. Just to give you an idea of how to mentally straighten this out, the olive-green "railing" on the balcony that comes at the viewer at the left of the photo is the same 15' board (straight) as the one at the right end. This is almost a 180-degree view from east to went (l to r). Across the freeway on the right is a driving range where golfers hit their golf balls across a long, flat green onto a hill with targets marking how far their shot would calculate to if the hill did not stop the trajectory.
Tips for shooting stills for panoramas:
1. Lock the exposure, so that each shot will match the others. Auto exposure will adjust each differently. I made an exposure measurement in the middle section, then locked it and shot them all in sequence, left to right
2. After you shoot each shot, as you re-frame, make sure there is 1/3 -1/2 of the next frame filled with that portion of the scene you just shot. (1/2 is better) The more redundancy of information from shot to shot the better.
Load them into the HP Panorama Stitcher in order (it also allows you to re-order them, if you goof up) and click OKAY, and in a matter of seconds, it does the matching and the math and finishes off a large panorama.
1. Lock the exposure, so that each shot will match the others. Auto exposure will adjust each differently. I made an exposure measurement in the middle section, then locked it and shot them all in sequence, left to right
2. After you shoot each shot, as you re-frame, make sure there is 1/3 -1/2 of the next frame filled with that portion of the scene you just shot. (1/2 is better) The more redundancy of information from shot to shot the better.
Load them into the HP Panorama Stitcher in order (it also allows you to re-order them, if you goof up) and click OKAY, and in a matter of seconds, it does the matching and the math and finishes off a large panorama.
Panorama software is built into a free set of tools made by HP
Mac versions (Photosmart Studio)
PC (look here)
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Improving Your eBay Listing Titles
A lot of eBay users, when executing a search, do not search using anything except the basic search. I don't actually know this to be a fact, but at age 50, knowing people as I think I do (yeah, so I work alone in a studio all day, what about it?) and watching the number of people who say "yeah, but I can't remember that" when I tell them control-c and control-v are a quicker way to copy and paste, I feel reasonably certain that my doubts about the common eBay user using the advanced tools are somewhat well-founded, if not factually accurate.
If you go to the eBay home page -- and there are a number of people who get there by typing www.ebay.com in their browser's Address field -- you will get a simple search box. I would imagine many people start there, and may even return there to do their searches. We are, after all, creatures of habit.
That search box looks like this:
So, you enter the word "painting" and click "enter" and you get a new page that, as of today lists 35,083 "Best matches" (that's encouraging...I hope someone finds my needle in the haystack). 6215 of them are listed by self-representing artists, 24,775 are listed in the Paintings category.
Helping people narrow down what they are searching for is a really good idea. If your last name (or first) is Rembrandt, you may not need to do many modifications to your current listings, but I know I am not that famous. It's naive to think people will search eBay for my last name.
There is a tool eBay supplies
A simple check box. IF (and I stress IF) someone is brave enough to click the BUY button at the top of the screen (and I am sure there are a number of people who will not because they are afraid it will immediately deduct money from their bank account), they will be taken to a different kind of search window:
There, one can type in a search string (string = series of letters and/or words) which will ONLY display results that have a match for those words IN THE TITLE of the listing. It will NOT return results for ANY of the words in your description.
So if you have an incredible painting of the SS Betty Anne and someone is looking for a schooner painting, they will never find your painting without the word "schooner" in your TITLE...
...UNLESS they check the little box, which is by default unchecked, next to the words "Search Title and Description"
See again the image, above.
So you can blather on all day in your description about how "this schooner painting is regarded by schooner enthusiasts and schooner geniuses, as one of the finest schooner works of art -- an original oil painting by John Q Famous -- and should be in the home of any schooner-loving schooner enthusiast or art collector" and your listing will be completely ignored if the title of your listing is "Original Oil Painting by John Q Famous - The SS Betty Anne L@@K!" because it doesn't say "schooner" in the title -- even though you LOADED it with "schooner" in the description.
You will get more hits from searches with the title Schooner Ship Boat Nautical Oil Painting Original
If you go to the eBay home page -- and there are a number of people who get there by typing www.ebay.com in their browser's Address field -- you will get a simple search box. I would imagine many people start there, and may even return there to do their searches. We are, after all, creatures of habit.
That search box looks like this:
So, you enter the word "painting" and click "enter" and you get a new page that, as of today lists 35,083 "Best matches" (that's encouraging...I hope someone finds my needle in the haystack). 6215 of them are listed by self-representing artists, 24,775 are listed in the Paintings category.
There are 86,400 seconds in a day, which means that a new painting is listed, on average, every 3 - 3.5 seconds or so... And that's 24/7/365. Even while you sleep.
Helping people narrow down what they are searching for is a really good idea. If your last name (or first) is Rembrandt, you may not need to do many modifications to your current listings, but I know I am not that famous. It's naive to think people will search eBay for my last name.
There is a tool eBay supplies
A simple check box. IF (and I stress IF) someone is brave enough to click the BUY button at the top of the screen (and I am sure there are a number of people who will not because they are afraid it will immediately deduct money from their bank account), they will be taken to a different kind of search window:
There, one can type in a search string (string = series of letters and/or words) which will ONLY display results that have a match for those words IN THE TITLE of the listing. It will NOT return results for ANY of the words in your description.
So if you have an incredible painting of the SS Betty Anne and someone is looking for a schooner painting, they will never find your painting without the word "schooner" in your TITLE...
...UNLESS they check the little box, which is by default unchecked, next to the words "Search Title and Description"
See again the image, above.
So you can blather on all day in your description about how "this schooner painting is regarded by schooner enthusiasts and schooner geniuses, as one of the finest schooner works of art -- an original oil painting by John Q Famous -- and should be in the home of any schooner-loving schooner enthusiast or art collector" and your listing will be completely ignored if the title of your listing is "Original Oil Painting by John Q Famous - The SS Betty Anne L@@K!" because it doesn't say "schooner" in the title -- even though you LOADED it with "schooner" in the description.
You will get more hits from searches with the title Schooner Ship Boat Nautical Oil Painting Original
Monday, January 7, 2008
Knowing Your File-type
Macs and Extensions
Until Mac's OS X (pronounced "ten" not "ecks") Mac users prided themselves in not needing to know those pesky little 3-letter combinations PC users had come to know as "extensions" and instead relied on the Mac OS (9 and earlier) to figure out which application should use it from file-type and creator info stored invisibly in the file.
I was asking a friend if he'd yet changed his Mac's default file-type for Screen Captures. He told me he didn't know, because when he does a capture using Command-Shift-3 [or 4] the process only produces a file named "Picture x" but no extension.Until Mac's OS X (pronounced "ten" not "ecks") Mac users prided themselves in not needing to know those pesky little 3-letter combinations PC users had come to know as "extensions" and instead relied on the Mac OS (9 and earlier) to figure out which application should use it from file-type and creator info stored invisibly in the file.
That is an issue of how you choose to display filenames, and this applies to both Macs and PCs. In my friend's case, his system settings were still at the default: Hide Extensions.
It's easily changed: on a Mac, Go to the Finder, then Choose Finder > Preferences.
Now, choose the Advanced icon:
Check "Show all File extensions" and close it.
On a PC, choose Tools > Folder Options...
Then un-check "Hide extensions for known file types." (click image to see larger.)
Don't forget to click Apply to All Folders, the button at the top.
Sunday, January 6, 2008
Mac Check-up
Sorry PC users, this one's for Macs.
Have you repaired your permissions lately? Even if you have no idea what that means or does, you really need to do it. At least once a month. If you have a Mac, do it now, and also add it to your iCal scheduler, repeat it monthly, and set an alarm to alert you with a message on that day. If you want, add this URL: http://artmeetstechnology.blogspot.com/2008/01/mac-check-up.html to the notes so you can find these instructions again.
Macs start acting up for fewer reasons than PCs, in my experience, but if you use a Mac for enough hours, you start to recognize when it's "not quite right." But even if you think it's running well, do some housecleaning anyway.
Repair Permissions
The tool to use is on your Mac. It's called Disk Utility. You can find it on your start-up drive, usually at Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilites > Disk Utility.app.
The Procedure is Simple
Open the Disk Utility application, and click on the name of your start-up drive:
Next, press the button at the lower left of the right-hand pane... the button that says Repair Permissions. (Click the picture at left, for a larger view).
Now sit back and watch the progress bar at the bottom. (2 to 6 minutes, depending on number of repairs to make.
When you're done, the "Report" shown in the window should look just like mine -- no errors. If you see any more text than that, run it again. If you see no more additional text when you're done, you have successfully helped your computer be well. If you see a LOT more than that, be glad you read this.
Repeat the procedure if the report is not "clean" like mine.
When You Should Repair Permissions
Have you repaired your permissions lately? Even if you have no idea what that means or does, you really need to do it. At least once a month. If you have a Mac, do it now, and also add it to your iCal scheduler, repeat it monthly, and set an alarm to alert you with a message on that day. If you want, add this URL: http://artmeetstechnology.blogspot.com/2008/01/mac-check-up.html to the notes so you can find these instructions again.
Macs start acting up for fewer reasons than PCs, in my experience, but if you use a Mac for enough hours, you start to recognize when it's "not quite right." But even if you think it's running well, do some housecleaning anyway.
Repair Permissions
The tool to use is on your Mac. It's called Disk Utility. You can find it on your start-up drive, usually at Macintosh HD > Applications > Utilites > Disk Utility.app.
Whether yours displays with the ".app" after it is a matter left to your personal Finder preferences.
The Procedure is Simple
Open the Disk Utility application, and click on the name of your start-up drive:
Next, press the button at the lower left of the right-hand pane... the button that says Repair Permissions. (Click the picture at left, for a larger view).
Now sit back and watch the progress bar at the bottom. (2 to 6 minutes, depending on number of repairs to make.
This is so easy, there are actually no decisions to make, no questions to answer. "Set it and forget it."
When you're done, the "Report" shown in the window should look just like mine -- no errors. If you see any more text than that, run it again. If you see no more additional text when you're done, you have successfully helped your computer be well. If you see a LOT more than that, be glad you read this.
Repeat the procedure if the report is not "clean" like mine.
When You Should Repair Permissions
- Once a month
- Immediately after you install any Apple Updates
- Immediately after you install any Apple Software
- Immediately after you add any third party enhancements
- Whenever your computer starts acting strangely.
- After System Software upgrades, like from Tiger to Leopard.
Saturday, January 5, 2008
No One Buys My Paintings
Make sure you have included on your blog some way of getting hold of you! You know: Contact Info. There are an astounding number of blogs out there that do not have any contact information on them.
Having Zero Contact Info Will Affect Sales
We need to understand the difference between privacy versus deliberate, abject obscurity bordering on non-existence. The latter will have a direct impact on sales.But, David, I don't want my e-mail address on there for spam-robots to harvest and start sending me offensive images, medical enhancement ads, mortgage info, solicitations of marriage from Russian women, or all that other stuff I already get in my InBox anyway.
I understand. And I don't want you to, either.
But you need to have contact information on your website or blog. You just need to make it spam-robot proof.
Here's How
Use a free service to encrypt your e-mail address, such as the one I have bookmarked at this site. Enter your e-mail address (carefully) in the proper field then click the 'Encode' button. Finally, select everything in the box and Copy it to the clipboard.
Here is what you have stored in memory right now. When you Paste it, you will see it all as one, long line, and without color differences as shown:
The Clipboard
Think of the clipboard as a wallet for your computer task. When you copy, you are putting money in the wallet. As long as you don't paste, you have not spent your money. You can do a whole lot of things on your computer, and that money will still be there when you need it. Unlike a real wallet however, if you copy something else, it does not add the new money to the wallet it replaces it.
Think of the clipboard as a wallet for your computer task. When you copy, you are putting money in the wallet. As long as you don't paste, you have not spent your money. You can do a whole lot of things on your computer, and that money will still be there when you need it. Unlike a real wallet however, if you copy something else, it does not add the new money to the wallet it replaces it.
Now, the code, as you've just encoded it will display your e-mail address on your web page, and will look something like this: david@darrowart.com
Yes, you can see it, and it's a working link, but spam-robots cannot see it.
If that's good enough for you leave it as it is. Or add "E-mail me: " before it, to get this:
E-mail me: david@darrowart.com
But maybe you'd rather just have this instead:
Purchase Inquiry? e-mail me!
You'll have to modify the code — and it's not that difficult. In the first code snippet I posted above, everything in red is the part you replace with what you would like the link to say. Leave the ">" and the "<" on either side of it:
If you copy that and store it somewhere in a text file, you can use that snippet of code anywhere in your blog, posts or sidebar and you'll have the right kind of robot-proof link every time! You miht even like to insert it into the descriptive paragraph of your Profile, in teh About Me section.
One Step Fancier
One other cool trick will help you determine if people are writing to you from your blog or website:
Add the following immediately before the last double-quote (see the blue text) like this:
Try it — It'll send me a thank-you: e-mail me
Labels:
contact information,
e-mail links,
encrypted links,
privacy
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